Wednesday, September 17, 2008

New Junk

When trying to concieve a new menu i have a process that may or may not be "Normal".

Of course the first thing I do is to think about the season. Currently, I am thinking about Autumn. You know...pumpkins, pork, squashes, braising, stews...Rich and hearty foods that still hold on to that little bit of summer recently past. Not quite the rich fatty winter food but no more of the light, etherial foods of summer.

The second step is ALL in my head. This is where I usually get into trouble. You see, my head is bigger than my staffs abilities, my vendors product lists, my kitchen and my budget...all combined. In other words...I have delusions of grandure! Let me 'splain...

When I get an idea in my head about a certain dish I would like to do, I have it ALL worked out in my head, first. I can see the dish in my minds eye exactly as I would want to see it on the plate. Problem is...my minds eye is near sighted, cross-eyed and slightly squinted. (and there might be an eye lash in there as well. I don't know) The dish, when first I try it on a plate, NEVER looks like I saw it in my head. What the fuck...

So...I re-plate it...re-cook it...re-plate it again....re- re-cook and so on. Until, finally, after a few times of trial and error...I give up and toss the entire dish, plate, pot, and idea in the fucking trash and give up on it. About then is when I get the right idea for the dish. The one I should have had in the first place and try it again. This time it works. This time it is a masterpiece. This time I'm gonna be in the chef's hall of fame. ...But my staff would NEVER be able to replicate it. So...back to the drawing board.

Don't get me wrong. I have an incredible brigade (of 4) in my kitchen. All of whom are well qualified and would be able to work in the best restaurants anywhere. There are just not enough of them for some of my culinary dilusions. Some of my bright ideas would take 6 hands and about 20 minutes per plate to serve. I only have two at a time and about 6 minutes per dish. I'm screwed!

So...I don't dumb it down...I scale it down. Lose a component or two. Simplify a piece of prep. Make it a bit easier to execute while still maintaining my level of expectation. This is usually when the whole thing miraculously comes together. When I'm at the "simplification" stage.

Here is what I came up with this time.

Spice lacquered Muscovy duck breast with Bulghur, lemon and coriander. Arugula and pistachio salad with a molasses gastrique. Sublime! ...and in only three days!

So...until next time

NO more trans fats!!!

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Your "all in your head" stuff used to drive me nuts. It would have been better (for me) if it would have driven me to drink! Anyway, the duck sounds great. Don't forget to get your food costs into Chef Teck! Teehee

Your friend, Jacqui